Wednesday, October 31, 2012

A Roman Adventure Part Two: The Heart of Rome

Fori Imperiali
The sun shone brightly on our second full day in Rome. With the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Palatine Hill and Capital Hill on our agenda, we had an early start to the day - my birthday! And I must say, Rome is quite the place to celebrate a quarter of a century. The day was filled with exploring, photo snapping, gelato, sunshine, great food and even a nap- add in the beach and that would be my dream day. The only thing that was missing was my twin sister.

Anyways, on to our first adventure: the chaotic Colosseum. We walked ten minutes from our hotel, past a small fountain-filled piazza, and arrived at the welcoming and crowded Colosseum.  We eventually found the correct line, through a bit of Italian chaos, and paid 5 Euro extra for a guided tour from the Colosseum staff. I would not recommend this; with a good guide book, a self-made tour is much better.

Built in A.D. 80 during the height of the Roman Empire, this amphitheater was the sight of gladiator battles against other gladiators or animals, or the show featured animals battling animals. At one point in its history, the Flavian Amphitheater (the Colosseum's real name) was flooded to stage navy battle scenes. The arena could seat 50,000-70,000 fans and they could exit the Colosseum in fifteen minutes. Through Roman innovation of concrete and the arch formation, the Colosseum still stands in most of its grand glory today.

Overlooking the inside of the Colosseum
Derek overlooking the inside
The oval arena shows ancient elevator shafts that at one time were used to bring gladiators into the arena.
Colosseum at night
Derek in front of the Colosseum
Me in front of the Arch of Constantine

Roman Forum

Roman life was sophisticated, extravagant and filled with modern day luxuries. With running water in nearly every house, public baths to pass the time in, and grand structures that rival modern-day buildings, Rome, at the heart of the Roman empire is regarded as an engineering empire.

We started our tour of the Roman Forum area at Palatine Hill. With many ruins scattered throughout the striking green expanse, Palatine Hill once served as the home to the Imperial Palace, where emperors lived for three centuries. There were courtyards, a stadium, fountains, and a view of Circus Maximus. Derek and I wandered around the ruins, reading descriptions from our guide book along the way. 

Ancient arch on Palatine Hill
Beautiful skies at Palatine Hill
Palatine Hill's Stadium
Private wing of the palace
Overlooking the Colosseum from Palatine Hill
We took a path down from the hill into the Forum Romanum. The Roman Forum was the center of Rome, where the citizens gathered, women traded gossip and politicians strolled in togas. There was so much to see, and honestly, it was hard to see and fully understand everything going on. But, through photos, I will try to describe what we saw on our walk down Roman history.

Roman Forum

The House of the Vestal Virgins shared a story of ancient ritual, ruin and respect. The Vestal Virgins were chosen at the age of ten from prominent families to live a life of chastity for thirty years and protect the ever-burning flame of Rome. If the woman fulfilled her duty, she would receive riches and be allowed to marry. If she did not, she faced a doomed fate. This area of the forum contained statues of the Vestals, some partial and some whole. According to my Rick Steve's guide book, the Vestal's house was a "model for medieval monasteries and convents."

Courtyard of the Vestal Virgins
Statues of the Vestal Virgins
Derek walking down Via Sacra, the main road of Ancient Rome
There were piles of ruins everywhere. Pieces of Roman columns covered the grounds and provided a unique and intriguing landscape. Had Augustus leaned against that pillar at one time? In a very imaginative way, it's almost as if each little piece has a story to tell.
Roman Forum Ruins
Roman pillars were scattered throughout
Temple of Saturn
Roman Forum at night
Fresh, cold water straight from the aqueducts!
After climbing a large stairway out of the Roman Forum and onto Capital Hill, Derek and I climbed another set of stairs leading up to the Santa Maria in Aracoeli Church. In all of my church-visiting days, I have never seen a church like this one. With a mix of every art style imaginable, the church glowed in glory. Many small chapels dedicated to saints lined the outer edges, and there was even a small chapel where the Nativity Scene is displayed every Christmas. I have never seen chandeliers in a church, but hey, when in Rome!

Chandeliers adorn the inside of Santa Maria in Aracoeli Church
View from the top of the Victor  Emmanuel Monument 
After a quick stop at the Victor Emmanuel Monument for a stunning view of Rome, we headed back to the hotel for a power nap - a rare thing when we travel- but first made a stop at a delicious gelateria to cool off. Compared to the weather in Germany, Rome was warm and sunny!
Italian vino and gelato
That evening, we made our way to the Spanish Steps, after attempting to go to the Trevi Fountain again. Avoiding the mass groups of tourists at the Trevi, we somehow stumbled upon the Spanish Steps and enjoyed the view and atmosphere before heading to dinner.

Spanish Steps
After skimming menus at several restaurants (all have menus outside), we settled for a touristy, but romantic restaurant with a Pantheon view. The food was alright- I had a creamy pasta with mushrooms- but the atmosphere was grand. At night, the Pantheon portrayed a mystical feeling and to dine in front of it was wonderful. At the end of the meal, the waiters brought a tiramisu with a candle and started singing Happy Birthday. A classic Italian birthday!
 
A birthday dinner by the Pantheon
                                                                                                     
Pantheon at night
Pantheon at night
After a long, beautiful day, we headed back to the hotel and called it a night. Thanks to my husband for a wonderful birthday in Rome! 

On Monday, we took our time packing and left our bags at the hotel for pickup later. Our flight was leaving at 7 pm, so we had another full day ahead of us. We started our morning with a walk around the market in Campo de Fiori and stopped for a coffee and baguette for breakfast. Then we headed to the Pantheon for a third time, but this time to actually go inside. The Pantheon, built in AD 120, was used as a temple to all Roman gods. When Rome turned Christian, so did the Pantheon. It is the only ancient building in Rome to continuously be used since it was constructed. The Pantheon is as tall as it is wide, and was the model for St. Peter's Basilica, the dome in Florence, and the Capitol Building in DC. The dome has an open circle at the top, and was the only light source for the church. When we visited, it had recently rained. In the middle of the church, a rope marked off the wet floor, although the floor is built slanted so that rain water can drain.  

Cafe at Piazza di Fiori
Altar of the Pantheon
Open dome inside the Pantheon
Derek inside the Pantheon
Top of the Pantheon
 We spent the rest of the day wondering the streets, walking, walking, and walking just a bit more. We strolled through Piazza Navona, a hub of artists, tourists and cafes. We walked along the river and up some quaint cobbled streets where we found some gelato, again, and over to the Spanish Steps in search of an ancient city wall. We didn't find a wall, but instead we made our way back to our hotel's neighborhood and settled into the same restaurant from the first night. Why not have one more delicious meal before leaving Italy? We had fried zucchini flowers with anchovies (I picked those out) and Derek had the macaroni with sheep and ricotta cheese and I had a pasta with veges. We caught an early bus to the airport and after a storm delay made it back to our house late Monday night. 

Piazza Navona
Piazza Navona on a beautiful, sunny day.
Flower market
Our favorite restaurant!
An interesting entrance
Derek loved the tiny cars.

Trevi Fountain tourists
Victor Emmanuel Monument
Site of the Argentina Ruins- literally in the middle of a busy intersection.
I highly recommend Rome as a bucket-lister. The city was a mix of old and new sites, young and old people, tourists and locals, history and daily life, and Derek and I loved it. I suppose that's all for now. Ciao!

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